1. Clean and remove all dirt and grease from wheels.
2. Tape up any thing you don't want painted or sanded.
3. Remove all old paint
4. Clean up the old paint debris.
5. Apply base paint coat using multiple light coats. With about 10-15 mins dry time between coats.
6.Apply Spaz stix holographic paint using light coats with an hour dry time between coats.
7. Apply clear coat.
8. Remove tape and enjoy your awesome new color.
9. Mount your wheels and break necks lol.
•Schedule a checkup
-Perform basic maintenance on your vehicle before you head out such as checking wipers and fluid levels. Also, schedule any necessary service such as oil changes or tune ups. A vehicle in top shape will have a better chance of staying reliable and efficient.
-Check your battery to make sure it’s strong and has clean terminals: A little baking soda and water will do the job. A road trip is no fun if your car won’t start.
•Read the rubber
-Inspect your tires for any tears or bulges in the side wall. The tires should have a good amount of tread left. The easiest way to measure this, if you don't have a gauge, is to hold a quarter upside down in the tread. If the top of George Washington’ head is visible, you need new tires to ensure traction in all weather conditions. Make sure the tire pressures are set to the figures that are printed on the placard on the driver’s door jam, or what’s listed in your car’s owner’s manual.
•Give it a break
-Have your service station inspect your car’s brake pads to make sure they aren’t worn or need replacing.Be prepared. Bring supplies in the event of an accident or medical issue. Stock your car with an Emergency kit especially a flashlight, blanket, first-aid kit, and some basic tools.
-Check your vehicle’s load capacity to make sure you aren’t putting too much weight in the car. On most new cars, the total weight you can carry is printed on the door placard inside the driver’s door jam. This load rating includes all the passengers and cargo. Be aware that fuel economy is reduced with extra cargo. Roof-top cargo boxes should only be filled with light bulky items. Heavy loads on the roof can make the vehicle more difficult to handle in emergency situations and increase the risk of a roll over.
-A GPS system will help you get where you’re going, making it easy to find gas stations or restaurants along the way. Traffic-enabled devices can warn of roadway congestion, and all units can assist in finding an alternate route. Also, a navigator can help direct emergency services to your location, should something happen.
-If you’re driving with kids, make sure you pack enough snacks, water, games, videos, and music to keep them comfortable and occupied during your journey.
-During busy travel times expect to hit traffic. It may make sense to drive late at night or early in the morning to avoid the rush and ensure you get to your destination on time and with minimal stress. Make sure you count on stops for refreshment and restroom breaks, and time your fuel stops to ensure you don’t run low.
-Make sure you are driving safely and follow the rules of the road.
Let’s start with crap since this one is by far the most common ingredient in the wasted money equation. Crap begins in your engine bay where many owners try to opt for the cheapest parts at the cheapest possible prices. In earlier times certain auto parts, such as alternators, window switches and fuel pumps, were given lifetime guarantees. Today though, those replacement components typically have a one-year to two-year guarantee from a discount parts store that offers a limited guarantee for an important reason.
The deal you just got from that low price stems from cheapness, and it has a domino effect of increasing your repair costs over time. Cheapness is a disease when it comes to cars and it often shortens the life expectancy and enjoyment of what you drive. It isn’t just what’s under the hood that can hurt you. Down the road, cheap tires that last only 30,000 to 40,000 miles can result in expensive suspension repairs and usually wear out twice as quick as a quality replacement than can last 65,000 miles or beyond. Behind those tires, cheap brake pads squeal with abandon and eventually increase your overall costs due to the multiple labor hours it takes to replace two to three sets versus only one.
Neglect is far more than just being a slob and treating the interior like a personalized trash bin. It’s the attitude of ignoring small problems that eventually become expensive ones. An example of neglect is ignoring the fact that your oil (or coolant level) is low and doing absolutely nothing about it. Or, ignoring a small bit of engine noise that just doesn’t sound right. A lot of folks don’t want to go to the shop and open up the checkbook, even though that may be the temporary speed bump needed to get that car back in near-excellent condition. So, they ignore it in the hope that it will go away. It’s just as likely to get far worse, and far more expensive, to fix.
Yes, there are some owners that are true human hurricanes when it comes to car ownership. But just driving aggressively or eventually scratching up every panel on a car is not the abuse that destroys a car. Abuse is a mindset. It’s a belief that a car can handle whatever you can throw at it because it’s a machine. Revving a car when the engine is cold is a lot like asking someone to run sprints when they just got out of bed. When you step on it all the time, you also put a load on your motor, transmission mounts, and your suspension system. Eventually they get loose and begin to degrade and fall apart. Don’t go all OJ with your car. Chill out. Let the car warm up by driving it reasonably, and save that hard acceleration and braking for when you really need it.
This is often seen as an issue if you live in the rust belt or the northeastern United States. But when it comes to how a car looks, everyone has to deal with rust at some point. And very few people do anything about it.
Ever see a front of a hood that looked like a thousand specks of brown decided to congregate together? Ever see a deep scratch, or a scuff, get a brown tinge to it and start spreading all over the body?
This is how rust affects the overwhelming majority of cars. Minor cosmetic issues such as paint chips and small scratches eventually become cancerous ones as the surrounding paint begins to flake off. In time, that once cherished chariot of yours becomes a beater that is not worthy of your investment.
Over 99% of what made you fall in love with a car is usually still there. When it comes to wasting money with cars, the question really boils down to whether you are willing to make the right investments instead of taking the lazy way out.
You are the one who makes the difference. The wealth and joy of car ownership is only wasted when you willingly let your car suffer the death of a thousand cuts. Although a few cars are truly defective from the inside out, it’s usually not the car that makes the difference when it comes to wasting money.
The owner determines the quality of a car. When it comes to wasting money, it’s the cheap person who always pays the most in the long run.
By 1996, the Chevy Impala was rejuvenated as a 5.7-liter V8–powered engine edition, which gives power of 260 horsepower and torque of 330 lb-ft, the sort of power that is very much wanted beneath the hood of an attractive package. Still, it commanded just a three-year run from 1994 to 1996. Also, it appears to be one of General Motor’s superior models that were relegated prematurely. The 1996 Chevrolet Impala models include Chevy Impala LT, Chevrolet Impala LS and Chevy Impala SS.
The Chevrolet Impala 1996 engine gave out a power of 194 kW, 260 HP @ 4,800 RPM; 330 ft lb @ 3,200 RPM, running on unleaded fuel. The engine had 101.5 mm bore, 10 compression ratio, 88.4 mm stroke, cast iron block, overhead valve, cast iron head, and two valves per cylinder.
The 96’ Impala looks menacing with regular big 17-inch alloy wheels having monochromatic paint, and other standard features such as alternating windshield wipers, a rear spoiler, and tinted glass. The interior of the 1996 Chevrolet Impala boasts bucket seats, an automatic drive indicator on dashboard, air conditioner, Carpet floor mats, Steering wheel mounted cruise control, Bucket reclining electrically adjustable driver and passenger seat, Leather seat upholstery with additional vinyl, Ventilation system with four fan speeds and lots more.
Their Chevrolet Impala SS series was their best sporty model and it was available from 1961 to 1969. In 1992, GM revived the Impala Super Sport badge with a model at the Detroit Auto Show. The Chevy Impala SS was mainly a refurbished and lowered Caprice LTZ with a Corvette ZR1 motor. The full size, rear-wheel drive acknowledged lofty commendations and production began more or less straight away at General Motor’s Arlington, Texas, production plant. The 1994 Impala SS was the first Impala SS in 25 years and the sole four-door built. The Chevrolet Impala SS 1996 model was the closing year of the Impala Super Sport and it was the sole model having analog gauges rather than digital and the shifter located in the center console instead of having it in the steering column. The Chevy Impala SS has an original floor-mounted shifter that controls its refined 4-speed automatic transmission, and its novel analog tachometer keeps tabs its dominant LT1 V8. The LT1 engine gives out 80 bhp above the engine of the Caprice it is founded on and gives the Impala SS remarkable performance statistics. It turned out a successful car in its first year as the stipulated 6000 were manufactured, but order rose to above 41000 in 1996.
SRT Hellcat Coupe
6.2L V8 Supercharger 6-speed Manual
MSRP from $62,495
Fuel Economy:13/21 mpg
Width:6 ft. 3.7 in. (75.7 in.)
Height:4 ft. 7.7 in. (55.7 in.)
Length:16 ft. 5.5 in. (197.5 in.)
Ground Clearance:0 ft. 4.5 in. (4.5 in.)
Wheel Base:9 ft. 8.2 in. (116.2 in.)
Front Head Room:39.3 in.
Front Hip Room:55.3 in.
Front Leg Room:42.0 in.
Front Shoulder Room:58.5 in.
Rear Hip Room:47.8 in.
Rear Head Room:37.1 in.
Rear Leg Room:33.1 in.
Rear Shoulder Room:53.9 in.
Fuel Type:Premium unleaded (recommended)
Fuel Tank Capacity:18.5 gal.
Range In Miles (city/hwy):240.5/388.5 mi.
Mileage Est. (cty/hwy):13/21 mpg
Weights & Capacities
Interior Volume:110.1 cu.ft.
Gross Weight:5450 lbs.
Curb Weight:4470 lbs.
Cargo Capacity, All Seats In Place:16.2 cu.ft.
Drive Type:Rear wheel driveTransmission:6-speed manual
Engine & Performance
Base Engine Size:6.2 LCam Type:Overhead valves (OHV)Cylinders:V8Valves:16Torque:650 ft-lbs. @ 4000 rpmHorsepower:707 hp @ 6000 rpmTurning Circle:38.5 ft.
Four-wheel independent suspensionFront and rear stabilizer bar.
1. Use toothpaste to scrub headlights
Your once-unblemished headlights don’t have the clarity they used to. Use a tube of blue toothpaste to clean the smudges (make sure the toothpaste does not contain peroxide, a whitening agent, or any other additives). Apply the toothpaste to the lens cover, rub with a cloth and rinse with water. Good as new.
2. Blow dust and lint away with a leaf blower
For a quick and powerful sendoff, use a leaf blower to dispatch hard-to-get-to crumbs and dust bunnies.
3. Make registration sticker remnants old news
Outdated license registration stickers never want to come off in one piece. Simply wet a piece of newspaper with warm water and place it over the sticker for 10 minutes. Then wipe the leftover bits and pieces away with ease.
4. Remove old bumper stickers with WD-40
Bumper stickers need to go? Spray WD-40 on the area and let it set for a few minutes. The spray helps easily remove the sticker, as well as any remaining dirt.
5. Make your car sparkle with hair conditioner
Giving your locks that extra shine isn’t the only thing hair conditioner is good for. Fill a bucket with two cups of water and ½ a cup of hair conditioner that contains lanolin. Cover your car with the mixture and use a microfiber cloth to make sure it’s spread out evenly. Finish up by hosing down your ride and drying it off with a towel.
Honda B-Series VTEC
Sources: Popular versions include the B16A, B16A2, B16A3, B16B, B17A1, B18C, B18C1 and B18C5. Engine codes not concluded with a numeral are sourced from Japanese-only (JDM) chassis. The rest can be found in North American-spec vehicles. B16A engines are native to most 1987-2000 Japanese-spec Si, Si-II, SiR and SiR-II-badged Civic and CRX chassis. Similar 1.6L engines can be found in Japanese-only 1989-1993 Integra RSi and XSi models. Only the Japanese market 1997-2001 Civic features the unique B16B engine. Japanese-only B18C engines can be found in 1993-2001 Integra Si VTEC, SiR-G and Type R chassis, however, the Type R's powerplant is a markedly different, more powerful version. In North America, B16A2 and B16A3 engines were offered in the 1999-2000 Civic Si and 1994-1997 del Sol VTEC, respectively. Only the 1992-1993 Integra GS-R featured the B17A1. Finally, the B18C1 can be found in any 1994-2001 Integra GS-R and its more powerful relative, the B18C5, was available in all 1997-2001 (exclude 1999) Integra Type R.
Engine Swap Candidates: Any 1988-2000 Civic, CRX or del Sol as well as any 1990-2001 Integra. May also be transplanted into any 1984-1987 Civic or 1986-1989 Integra, however, such swaps are not nearly as prevalent.
Specs: There are four different architectures among the B-series VTEC family, the 1.6L B16A, B16A2 and B16A3; the 1.6L B16B that features a taller deck and longer stroke; the B17A1 that's nearly identical to the B16A except for its longer stroke; and the B18C, B18C1 and B18C5 that feature the same deck height as the B16B but with the most stroke of any of these. Horsepower varies significantly, with early B16A models measuring in at only 160hp and some of the final JDM-spec, 1.8L Type R versions reaching almost 200 hp. Use your brain when considering cross-pollenating engine swaps, though; dropping a 160hp B16A into an Integra Type R will never make sense.
How Much: A complete swap, including the engine, transmission, ECU and any applicable aftermarket engine mounts and axles can set you back as little as $1,500 for an early model B16A or as much as $7,000 for something more powerful and rare, like the Civic Type R's B16B.
The Good: Few engines feature the sort of aftermarket support and potential that Honda's B-series does. Even today-nearly 15 years after Honda's discontinuing the B-series platform-it remains the engine of choice for some of the most powerful Hondas in history, capable of producing in excess of 1,200hp.
The Bad: Yours won't be making 1,200hp, though. Eclipsing the 400hp mark isn't hard, but it'll cost you. A lot. The cylinders, fuel system, engine management and drivetrain must all be addressed if you care about any of it holding together.
The Aftermarket: Hasport and Innovative Mounts both offer bolt-in B-series solutions for any of these chassis.
Sources: The K20A2 was first offered in the North American-spec 2002-2004 RSX Type-S and then later rebadged as the K20Z1 for 2005-2006 models. The similar K20Z3 can be sourced from any 2006-2011 Civic Si. In Japan, the K20A is offered in dozens of JDM vehicles, however, look for more powerful versions exclusive to 2001-2011 Civic Type R, Type R Euro, Integra Type R and Accord Euro R models. Back in the U.S., the 2004-2008 TSX is fitted with the larger-displacement K24A2 with Japanese variants available in 2004-2008 Accord 24S, 24T, 24TL and Type S chassis.
Engine Swap Candidates: Any 1988-2005 Civic, CRX or del Sol as well as any 1990-2001 Integra. May also be transplanted into any 1990-1997 Accord, 1992-1996 Prelude, 2011-2013 CR-Z or 2007-2013 Fit.
Specs: Available in 2.0L and 2.4L configurations (2.3L RDX engines are entirely different), Honda's K-series is its most sophisticated four-cylinder to date. Performance-oriented versions like those listed above feature variable valve lift at all 16 valves and electronically controlled, dynamic camshaft phasing on the intake side. Power starts at 197hp on entry-level 2.0L engines and is rated as high as 222hp on select Type R versions.
How Much: K-series engines like any of these that feature VTEC on both camshafts aren't the least expensive. They are, however, the most powerful. Pricing starts around $6,000 for a complete K20A2 swap and can eclipse the $10,000 mark once anything Type R is added to the list.
The Good: Only the B-series rivals the K-series in terms of aftermarket support. There's also no other four-cylinder Honda engine swap that's comparable power-wise in factory form.
The Bad: The price. Because of the engines' orientation and shifter layout, a host of aftermarket components are required to complete any K-series swap. The engines and transmissions themselves aren't exactly inexpensive either.
The Aftermarket: Hasport, Innovative Mounts, Hybrid Racing and K-Tuned all offer engine mount and swap solutions for any of these chassis.
Honda F-Series (DOHC)
Sources: Look to the 1999-2005 Japanese-spec S2000 for the smaller-displacement F20C and late-2005-2009 models for the bigger F22C. In North America, the F20C1 was available from 2000-2003 until it was replaced with the F22C1 for model years 2004-2009. Special JDM only Type V and U.S.-only CR models were sold with the same 2.0L and 2.2L engines, depending on the year.
Engine Swap Candidates: Although not a direct, bolt-in transplant, the F-series regularly makes its way into Miata chassis as well as classic RWD Toyota platforms like older Corollas, Starlets and Celicas. The F-series also serves as the basis for at least a few RWD-converted Hondas like the 1992-2000 Civic or 1994-2001 Integra.
Specs: Honda's twin-cam F-series is the unofficial precursor to the K-series. Here, Honda implemented its timing chain-driven valvetrain, roller rocker cam followers, a clockwise-rotating assembly and one of the best-performing and flowing cylinder heads of any mass-produced, four-cylinder production engine. Both 2.0L and 2.4L engines yield 240hp-the larger of the two laying down an unprecedented 162lb-ft of torque.
How Much: S2000 production numbers pale in comparison to B-series or K-series chassis. As such, an F-series powertrain will cost you dearly. Depending on the chassis and the number of aftermarket components needed to complete the conversion, plan on spending upward of $6,000.
The Good: It remains Honda's most powerful four-cylinder engine to date and boasts a specific output rivaled only by the Ferrari 458 Italia and Porsche 911 GT3 RS 4.0.
The Bad: It's a pricey swap, and converting a non-Honda chassis to the likes of it requires custom engine mounts, a revised engine management system and all sorts of tricky wiring.
The Aftermarket: Not a whole lot. Plan on custom mounts, brackets, and all sorts of fabrication.
Sources: Honda introduced its 60-degree V6 J-series platform for the 1997 model year. Since then, it's been offered in a number of configurations and displacements, available in select trims and years of chassis including the Odyssey, Ridgeline, Pilot and Accord as well as the CL, TL, RL, TSX, TLX, RLX, RDX, MDX and ZDX. J-series engines were so widely produced and so prevalent in the U.S. that sourcing Japanese-versions is hardly necessary. If possible, look to the more powerful coil-on-plug engines and avoid those with drive-by-wire throttle bodies for the sake of swap simplicity.
Engine Swap Candidates: Any 1988-2000 Civic, CRX or del Sol as well as any 1994-2001 Integra. May also be transplanted into any 1990-1997 Accord.
Specs: Honda's single-cam, 60-degree J-series is the successor to its larger 90-degree V6 platform of decades past. Power varies significantly between platforms-as low as 240hp and as much as 310hp-with a combination of either VTEC or i-VTEC available for all models.
How Much: About $4,000 for an entry-level Odyssey engine, the appropriate gearbox, and whatever engine mounts and supporting electrical mods are needed. Later-model and more powerful engines naturally mean more money.
The Good: There is no better bang for the buck than Honda's 60-degree V6 engine family. No place else can 240hp be had for so little money.
The Bad: Aftermarket support is scarce when compared to other Honda engine platforms and at 550lbs, it's the heaviest of engine swaps into any of these chassis.
The Aftermarket: Hasport and Innovative Mounts both offer J-series solutions for most of these chassis.
Sources: Toyotas JZ line of engines was offered in several configurations, but you only care about the factory turbocharged ones. Most obvious, the twin-turbocharged 2JZ-GTE can be found in the duly-equipped, North-American-spec 1993-1998 Supra Turbo or its 1993-2002 JDM counterpart. Also native to Japan, select models of Toyota's first- and second-generation Aristo came equipped with the same twin-turbocharged, inline-six. Third-generation 1JZ-GTE engines share a similar architecture and are most commonly sourced from Japanese-only Toyota sedans, the most common of which is the 1996-2000 Chaser.
Engine Swap Candidates: Drop either into any of the following Lexus chassis: 1992-2000 SC 300, 1993-2006 GS 300 or 2001-2005 IS 300. Also fits into any Mark II or Mark III Supra as well as any 1985-1992 Cressida. More complex swaps include those into non-native chassis, like the third-generation RX-7, S2000 or 240SX, to name a few.
Specs: Toyota's 2JZ-GTE is likely the automaker's most ubiquitous engine ever. The 3.0L engine's cast-iron block is virtually indestructible, allowing its twin-turbocharged power figures to be increased significantly with little strengthening needed. North American versions lay down 320hp and 315lb-ft of torque-conservative figures if there ever were ones considering the engine's capabilities. Later versions, including the destroked and single-turbocharged, 2.5L IJZ-GTE also benefit from Toyota's patented variable valve timing: VVT-i.
How Much: Budget at least $7,500 for a good-running 3.0L engine, both turbos and the factory-issued GETRAG gearbox. If you've got another transmission in mind, lop about $4,000 off that figure. 1JZ-GTE engines are marginally cheaper, regularly selling for around $1,500. Don't forget to account for another $2,000 worth of electronics and mounts when swapping into any non-Toyota chassis.
The Good: Aside from Nissan's RB engines, Japan's likely never produced a stronger, more capable powerplant.
The Bad: The process. Retrofitting either engine into any non-native Toyota chassis can be a demanding job, even for the most seasoned of fabricators and wiring pros.
The Aftermarket: Look to Tech 2 Motorsports, Supra Sport or Zerolift Autolab for swap installation kits and turnkey solutions.
Sources: The factory-turbocharged SR engine you care about-the SR20DET-is available in various versions, all of which can be distinguished by turbocharger type and valve cover color and are native to both FWD and RWD configurations. Red valve cover: 1991-1993 Silvia K's, 180SX and Bluebird SSS ATTESA LTD; 1990-1994 Pulsar GTi-R and Sunny GTi-R (Euro). Black valve cover: 1994-1999 Silvia K's, 1999-2002 Silvia Spec-R, 1994-1997 180SX Type R and Type X, 1994-1995 Bluebird SSS ATTESA LTD and 1993-1999 200SX (Euro). Silver valve cover: 1995-2001 Avenir Salut GT Turbo and GT4 and 1997-2001 R'nessa GT Turbo.
Engine Swap Candidates: For something relatively straightforward, consider any 1989-1998 240SX. Can also be retrofitted into just about any Miata, RX-7 or classic Toyota or Datsun.
Specs: Used in both FWD and RWD applications, Nissan's 2.0L SR20DET features an 86mm, square architecture and either a T25 or T28 turbocharger, depending on the year. Variable cam timing, six-speed transmissions, and individual throttle bodies are all features that can be found on various versions, with power nearing the 245hp mark on final iterations.
How Much: Set aside roughly $2,000 for a complete swap. For non-native chassis, set aside even more for engine mounts and electronics.
The Good: That the SR20DET is compatible in both transverse and longitudinal form increases the number of chassis it'll work on. A proven platform, eclipsing the 300hp mark requires little effort.
The Bad: Nissan's SR20DET has been out of production for more than a decade, which means low-mileage, healthy specimens can be difficult to come by. Swapping one into any non-native chassis can also be a daunting process.
The Aftermarket: Get in touch with McKinney Motorsports, who likely has whatever SR20DET swap you're considering already figured out.
Sources: Nissan's RB series of engines dates back to the mid-1980s, but it's the later-model engines that suit most swaps. Look to the R32, R33 and R34 Skyline GT-R for the almighty RB26DETT.
Engine Swap Candidates: Because of the GT-R's Japanese exclusivity, it makes for a drop-in swap into almost no chassis. Still, popular candidates include the full lineup of Datsun's Z cars as well as Nissan's 300ZX and 240SX. Don't expect to use the GT-R's AWD gearbox, though.
Specs: Six, inline cylinders, individual throttle bodies, two turbos, dual-overhead cams and a severely detuned maximum output of about 280 hp. The 2.6L engine's turbos are arranged uniquely, dedicating each to their own triad of cylinders. Like Toyota's 2JZ-GTE, the RB26DETT's cast-iron block lends itself well to increased power, allowing upwards of 600hp to be made with only minimal modifications.
How Much: The longblock will set you back about $3,000, but that isn't the end of it. You'll also need the RWD transmission normally paired to RB25DETT-equipped Skylines. Set aside another $1,000 for this and another grand for any supporting swap components.
The Good: It's the epitome of Japanese supercar engines.
The Bad: Maintenance and replacement parts don't come cheap. The RB26DETT remains one of the most costly engines to modify.
The Aftermarket: McKinney Motorsports has also got a handle on RB engine swaps, as does Syko Performance.
General Motor LS
Sources: GM's LS series of engines begins in 1997 in what is curiously known as its third generation. Third-generation powerplants were produced until 2007 and can be found in dozens of chassis, the most obvious of which are the Camaro, Corvette, and Firebird. Second-generation engines produced from 2005 to present day can be sourced from the CTS-V, Impala, Monte Carlo, Camaro and Corvette, just to name a handful.
Engine Swap Candidates: The number of cars GM's LS engine can be and have been retrofitted into are seemingly limitless and every bit as complex as you'd imagine. Swap one into just about anything that's currently or will end up being driven by its rear wheels.
Specs: The number and variations of GM's LS engine can leave anybody confused. There's the 5.7L LS1 of which multiple variations exist, ranging from just over 300hp to as high as 350 hp. And then there's the LS6 of similar displacement; fewer variations exist here, the most powerful of which measures in at 400 hp. Of course, there's the LS2, LS4 and all sorts of other iterations of the LS name, but it's the 7.0L LS7 and LSX that you really care about, which start at 505hp and 470lb-ft of torque.
How Much: Shell out as little as $1,000 for a bare-bones, early model LS1 or as much as $15,000 for a ready-to-go LS7. Don't forget about some sort of engine management system, ancillaries and a drivetrain.
The Good: Only a big-cubic-inch V8 can deliver this sort of torque. In stock form it'll make more power than heavily modifying whatever you've currently got.
The Bad: GM's LS is exponentially heavier than whatever engine you've currently got with cast-iron-block versions even more so. Drivetrain, electronics and wiring are all entirely custom.
The Aftermarket: Before doing anything, get in touch with Boss Frog, Hinson Supercars, Monster Miata, Samberg Performance or V8 Roadsters for LS engine swap goods.
Sources: Mazda's historic 13B rotary engine's reinvented itself over the years, transforming itself from a modest naturally aspirated powerplant to the now-infamous twin-turbocharged 13B-REW. Look to 1975-and-newer JDM-only chassis like the Cosmo, RX-4 and RX-5, for example, for early 13B renditions. Turbocharged 13B-DEI models can be sourced from the second-generation RX-7. The more powerful and acclaimed 13B-REW, though, can only be found under the hood of the third-generation RX-7, both in North America and Japan. The similar 13B-RE engine remains exclusive to the Japanese only, 1990-1995 Eunos Cosmo.
Engine Swap Candidates: Straightforward swaps are few here. Finagle one into most any Miata or RX-8 with a bit of legwork.
Specs: Motivated by a team of sequentially paired, Hitachi turbochargers, the 13B-REW is the first production engine to feature such technology. North American versions are limited to 255hp, however, later-model, JDM engines make as much as 280hp.
How Much: Pick up a complete twin-turbo swap for about $2,000 or less. Add another $500 or so for Eunos Cosmo powertrains.
The Good: The 13B-REW, in particular, is capable of gobs of horsepower and has the ability to run efficiently and without issue for years when assembled and tuned properly.
The Bad: The rotary platform can be an unfamiliar one for those only accustomed to four-stroke piston engines.
The Aftermarket: For the most part, you're on your own here. Good luck with all of that.
1. Lift Kits
Are you setting up a rock crawler? Great, get a lift kit. Are you just tooling around campus with nine extra inches of height on your Silverado? People will think you're a pea brain.
2. HID headlights
There's nothing wrong with wanting new, strong headlights. Shooting the finest cheap HID kit you can get at AutoZone into the eyes of oncoming drivers is not good though.
3. Eco stickers
Oh, you drive a Prius? Tell me more about how you're saving the world.
4. Confederate Flag in the rear window
We don't know if this is worse if you live in the South, or if you have one of these flags and you live up north. We've seen people running these banners in Germany, which might be the very worst.
5. A- Pillar gauges
You can have the cleanest build in the world, but the moment you put gauges in the A-pillar, people think you bought everything for your car from autozone.
6. Sticker overload
For every tracktard who puts kill stickers for their runs at Watkins Glen or Willow Springs, there's a guy with eighteen Nürburgring outlines, a ‘no fat chicks' line, and a couple shocker stickers for good measure, too.
7. Chroming your car
Your chromed car might look cool, but everyone is going to think that the most stereotypical Lamborghini owner is behind the wheel.
8. No mufflers
Added horsepower or not, if you can hear your car coming from five blocks away, people think you're a douchenozzle.
9. Rolling coal
If you think it looks awesome to make your truck belch smog like a North Korean tractor, that's cool. Just expect every other road user to hate you like you kicked their dog.
Stretched tires, tons of negative camber, and suspension slammed to the ground. Driving a stanced car is like commuting to work on a bicycle that's on fire, or showing up for your school photo in a speedo and a rainbow wig. It's such a bad idea that you just applaud the commitment. Your average road user is less forgiving and will think your car is broken.
An ordinary four-stroke engine dedicates one stroke to the process of air intake. There are three steps in this process:
1. The piston moves down.
2. This creates a vacuum.
3. Air at atmospheric pressure is sucked into the combustion chamber.
Once air is drawn into the engine, it must be combined with fuel to form the charge -- a packet of potential energy that can be turned into useful kinetic energy through a chemical reaction known as combustion. The spark plug initiates this chemical reaction by igniting the charge. As the fuel undergoes oxidation, a great deal of energy is released. The force of this explosion, concentrated above the cylinder head, drives the piston down and creates a reciprocating motion that is eventually transferred to the wheels.
Getting more fuel into the charge would make for a more powerful explosion. But you can't simply pump more fuel into the engine because an exact amount of oxygen is required to burn a given amount of fuel. This chemically correct mixture -- 14 parts air to one part fuel -- is essential for an engine to operate efficiently. The bottom line: To put in more fuel, you have to put in more air.
That's the job of the supercharger. Superchargers increase intake by compressing air above atmospheric pressure, without creating a vacuum. This forces more air into the engine, providing a "boost." With the additional air in the boost, more fuel can be added to the charge, and the power of the engine is increased. Supercharging adds an average of 46 percent more horsepower and 31 percent more torque. In high-altitude situations, where engine performance deteriorates because the air has low density and pressure, a supercharger delivers higher-pressure air to the engine so it can operate optimally.
Unlike turbochargers, which use the exhaust gases created by combustion to power the compressor, superchargers draw their power directly from the crankshaft. Most are driven by an accessory belt, which wraps around a pulley that is connected to a drive gear. The drive gear, in turn, rotates the compressor gear. The rotor of the compressor can come in various designs, but its job is to draw air in, squeeze the air into a smaller space and discharge it into the intake manifold.
To pressurize the air, a supercharger must spin rapidly -- more rapidly than the engine itself. Making the drive gear larger than the compressor gear causes the compressor to spin faster. Superchargers can spin at speeds as high as 50,000 to 65,000 rotations per minute (RPM).
A compressor spinning at 50,000 RPM translates to a boost of about six to nine pounds per square inch (psi). That's six to nine additional psi over the atmospheric pressure at a particular elevation. Atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi, so a typical boost from a supercharger places about 50 percent more air into the engine.
As the air is compressed, it gets hotter, which means that it loses its density and can not expand as much during the explosion. This means that it can't create as much power when it's ignited by the spark plug. For a supercharger to work at peak efficiency, the compressed air exiting the discharge unit must be cooled before it enters the intake manifold. The intercooler is responsible for this cooling process. Intercoolers come in two basic designs: air-to-air intercoolers and air-to-water intercoolers. Both work just like a radiator, with cooler air or water sent through a system of pipes or tubes. As the hot air exiting the supercharger encounters the cooler pipes, it also cools down. The reduction in air temperature increases the density of the air, which makes for a denser charge entering the combustion chamber.
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