Tuxedos, on the other hand, are semi-formal, are classically referred to as dinner clothes, and are to be worn exclusively in the evening. If you’re invited to a “black-tie” event, that means you must wear a tuxedo.
With a basic tuxedo, men don’t have the sartorial freedom they do with a business suit. Think about the etymology of the word “formal,” specifically in the sense of adhering to a form. Tuxedos have a specific set of guidelines that will make it look “correct” and in tune with its history as a non-sporty garment. Here are some pointers for the first-time tux buyer:
DO:
- Wear a single-breasted tuxedo with only one button and either peaked lapels or a shawl collar. Any double-breasted button stance is appropriate, andpeaked lapels are standard here. Shawl collars on double-breasted jackets are very rare but smart if you can pull it off.
- Opt for jetted besom pockets on the jacket. They’re cleaner (and therefore more formal) than flap pockets.
- Wear either a vest or a cummerbund with a single-breasted jacket. Vests go particularly well with peaked lapels, and cummerbunds go nicely with shawl collars. Double-breasted jackets require neither.
- Line your tux with satin or grosgrain facings. At least the lapels, pockets, and pant out-seams should be faced with the material of your choice. Facing on the collar is optional.
- Wear pants that take braces or that have side tabs. Belts are no good on tuxedos.
- Keep your tuxedo colors to either black or midnight blue; a cream-colored jacket is appropriate for summer months or all year long in warm climates. You can venture into different colors for smoking jackets, but that’s for a different article altogether.
- Wear black patent leather oxfords (plain or cap-toe) or slip-ons; high-quality black calfskin shoes with a high shine are also acceptable. If you’re as secure as can be in your sense of style, some classic opera pumps with a bow on the vamp will make you stand out from the crowd to say the least.
- Choose black knee-high socks. Period.
- Shirts are white and either have a regular “turndown” collar or a “wing” collar, which is more traditional. Pleated or pique fronts are appropriate too, and pick up a stud set to lend some tasteful bling to your ensemble.
DON’T:
- Wear two- or three-button single-breasted tuxedos, and certainly not with notched lapels. If you’re going to opt for these details, you’re basically turning your tux into a suit. What’s the point of that?
- Get flap pockets. This is another business suit detail that will add bulk to your tux and compromise its formal integrity.
- Wear a belt with a tux. Ever.
- Put on shoes with too much detail like broguing, bicycle toes, wingtips, etc. They’re too sporty for tuxes.
- Wear a necktie, as these are too business-like for a tux. Think of it this way: how often do you get a chance to throw on a bow tie? Take advantage!